Monday: heritage carrots, three kinds, all sandy. The white ones are sweetest; the purple ones stain everything. We'll roast them for the starter.

Tuesday: the squash arrived. We take half; we leave the rest for the school kitchen. The squash wants a slow roast and a long rest. We'll do it with smoked cream and walnut.

Wednesday: mushrooms, wild, from the forager. Chanterelles, a few ceps. We will do the risotto today and again on Friday; we will not have them on Saturday.

Thursday: the tomatoes are at their best. We will not cook them. We will slice them, salt them, dress them, and put them on the menu for one day only.

Friday: apples. We will bake them over the embers tonight for the dessert. The late apples are sharper; the early ones are softer and split.

Saturday: we close the menu at nine. What is left goes home with the cooks.